Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall joins the festive preparations for two sumptuous but very different Christmas feasts. The first, a 12-course lavish affair, launches with pale bare bottoms as three eccentric looking men on a Norfolk beach dive naked into the cold sea for the twelfth Christmas running. The close friends, Simon Gough, James Late and Tony Elliott swear by this as a technique to ensure "the body will be deeply frozen, the mind crystallised and thereafter the cooking will gel." Highlights of the extravagant meal include a purple beetroot consommé borsht served with sour cream and caviar; monkfish mousses (each hiding a succulent orange scallop coral); stuffed giant carp and fresh langoustine served on a huge fir-tree branch. Hugh's second culinary encounter could not be more different as he visits artist and roaming surfer Tony Kitchall and his gang of 40 fellow travellers. Each year, they end their stint of work as lumberjacks and jills in a Brighton Christmas tree yard with a massive, adventurous feast (almost) al fresco, warmed by a roaring fire which cooks colourful kebabs.