Phillip Schofield visits Europe's most westerly capital during this year's turbulent meeting of the International Whaling Commission as Iceland campaigned to resume commercial whaling. He talks to whaling fleet-owner Kristjan Loftsson , Greenpeace campaigner Ami Finnsson , and goes on the first whale safari. He is attacked by Arctic terns on the golf course, crosses Europe's biggest glacier in a satellite-guided jeep, and awakens a geyser with a box full of soap. He engages in conversation with rock star Bubbi Morthens and Bjork Gudmundsdottir , lead singer of the country's biggest rock export, the Sugarcubes, in the world's most northerly curry house; and talks to film director Hrafn Gunnlaugsson who makes "cod westerns" featuring fantasy re-creations of the Viking settlers. And finally, Schofield meets Sveinbjorn Beinteinsson , high priest of the pagan religion Asatru, and Erla, an elf expert, who has mapped the city sites where she believes elves, dwarves and gnomes reside.