Phillip Schofield meets international opera star Montserrat Caballe, who recorded, with Freddie Mercury, the hit song named after the city; bestselling crime writer Manuel Vazquez Montalban; and Miralda, a "conceptual" artist masterminding the improbable marriage of two statues, the Statue of Liberty to Christopher Columbus. He takes a crash course in "essential" Spanish over dinner with Dolly, a new-found actress friend; investigates the Spaniards' obsession with gambling; joins an atmospheric mushroom feast with market traders; and has a moonlight encounter with Strel-la, queen of the witches.