Kikuma is located in northern Imabari City, Ehime Prefecture. The old town is known for its production of kawara roof tiles-an important industry with a history of more than 700 years. Many homes are decorated with ornate tiles at the end of roof ridges, called onigawara or "ogre tiles." They guard homeowners and town residents. Our traveler Cyril Coppini visits a kawara factory and learns about residents' attachment to the traditional tiles. He also discovers a colorful equine ritual with a history of over 600 years. The sacred rite, held on the grounds of the Kamo Shrine, involves horse racing and a pageant with both horse and rider in vibrant traditional costumes. Cyril meets a father and son who are devoted to the sacred race.