In 1772, Thomas Pennant set out to explore the last remaining blank on the map of the British Isles, a place he described as ‘desolation itself’. At the time, more was known about America’s east coast than about the Hebrides. Pennant aimed to change that, by charting the landscape and recording its geology and botany. But while he set out with the curiosity of a natural historian, he returned with the heavy heart of a humanitarian. In this Great British Journey, Nick Crane tries to find out why. Can he rediscover the finds Pennant made? What happened to the thousands who lived here in Pennant’s time? And why did Pennant suddenly abandon his journey, for a mad, wet and bog-ridden hike to a mysterious Scottish island? Who was Thomas Pennant? Originally from Wales, Pennant was 45, approaching 46, when he embarked on his journey in 1772. Independently wealthy, he could afford to fund his travels himself. While Pennant undertook several journeys, none were as successful or as important as this. Pennant felt his journey would better mankind. Science benefited from his detailed descriptions of the islands and their geology. And by writing about the inhabitants’ appalling poverty, he said he’d triggered improvements such as new fisheries and towns. He was a rare combination – pioneering scientist, visionary reformer and, perhaps above all, brave explorer.