Michael Portillo’s railway journey following his 1913 guidebook continues in Indonesia. Beginning in Java’s royal city, Yogyakarta, Michael visits the Sultan’s Palace and witnesses the ancient art of shadow puppetry, known as wayang. This revered form of storytelling was instrumental in the spread of Islam across the Indonesian archipelago. Michael traces the origins of batik, a highly decorative and intricate textile technique that has earned it Unesco world heritage status. Moving north to the town of Ambarawa, Michael boards a scenic heritage line constructed by the Dutch to exploit the natural resources of the island and which is now a restored relic of the colonial era, cherished by Javanese tourists. In the era Michael's Bradshaw’s guidebook was published, Java became the centre of Dutch trade routes across the world and a major gateway for exports. Michael heads for the mountainous interior to find out how the island remains one of the world’s biggest coffee producers today. At the city of Semarang, the headquarters of the Dutch East Indies Railway company, Michael visits the Great Mosque, whose sheer scale is a reminder that there are more Muslims in Indonesia than in any other country. Journey’s end is at the port of Surabaya, where Michael hears the story of how Indonesia finally won its independence.