Hidden in the ravines of the Chambal and protected for centuries by dense forest is an ancient temple town. Named after the Lord of the Elements - Shiva, this site; the ancient Bateshwar has the densest concentration of temples in one location in India - 200 and counting. While KK Muhammed, an exemplary officer of the ASI, has set new standards in restoration and recovery of almost half of these, there is much about the antiquity and intricacies of this temple town that still evades the brightest minds, while its magic is slowly coming back to life.